[aag]

Continuing the topic of water and 240V ... I'm reading this charger is IP66. Does it make it safe to store outside, while plugged into a weatherproof outlet? How about being in use/charging while raining?

The point of the short outlet adaptor connection to the charger gives me pause, but perhaps I'm overthinking this.

 

[Steverino]

The IP rating normally has two (but may have three) numbers:

1. Protection from solid objects or materials
2. Protection from liquids (water)
3. Protection against mechanical impacts (commonly omitted, the third number is not a part of IEC 60529)

Solids ingress protection Levels 5 and 6 are concerned with dust protection. Level 5 allows some dust to enter, but not enough to affect equipment operation. Level 6 is fully dust-tight. IP water resistance varies from mild drip resistance, through sprays, jets, and total immersion. For Levels 5 and 6, hose nozzles are used. The Level 5 exposure is at 12.5 liters/minute through a 6.3 mm (1/4 inch) nozzle. Level 6 is a higher pressure and flow test, using a 12.5 mm (1/2 inch) nozzle at a flow rate of 100 liters/minute. For both Levels 5 and 6, the hosing is conducted from a distance of 2.5 to 3 meters. Exposure time is three minutes. Level 7 would be putting the unit in a dunk tank.

My Ultium EVSE says "Enclosure Type 4X" not IP66 but I think they are very similar aag.

NEMA 4 and 4X
Watertight. Must exclude at least 65 GPM of water from a 1-inch nozzle delivered from a distance not less than 10 feet for 5 min. Used outdoors on ship docks, in dairies, in wastewater treatment plants and breweries. X (as 4X) indicates additional corrosion resistance.

So yes, safe to charge during rain, safe to use outdoors PROVIDED the cord is firmly seated into the control unit, the plug and the receptacle are in a weather proofing enclosure (usually a clear plastic bubble surrounding them both with the cord coming out the bottom. Here's an example

 

[Shtew]

The 2024 Equinox EV comes with a charge cord supporting both Level 1 (120V) A up to 1.4 kW and Level 2 (240V) charging at up to 7.7 kW (about 23 miles/hour). The Equinox EV supports a higher charging of 11.7 kW (about 34 miles/hour) (on a 60A circuit with a 48A capable EVSE) but this unit does not support that. This Dual Level Charge Cord can be used indoors or outdoors and has a 3 year limited warranty.

Two Versions
There are TWO VERSIONs of this charge cord, the earlier one is white, the current version is black. Besides color, they are constructed differently. The white version has a row of 4 plugs on the cord that snap into the control box. The black version has the 4 plugs arranged in a square, two rows of two.

Please note: All charging requires a dedicated circuit suitable for the heavy-duty, continuous load of charging. In other words, don't plug into a circuit that's also used by other appliances (refrigerator, freezer, garage door opener, table saw, dehumidifier, toaster, stoves, etc.). You could overload the circuit and trip the breaker, or smoke/melt/char the wiring or worst case cause a wiring fire.

120V Or 240V?
Depending on your home's outlet, you plug either the 120V pigtail into the unit or the 240V pigtail.

Zippered Bag
The Equinox EV charge cord also comes with a zippered cloth case that fits under the cargo deck on the rear passenger side

Here's the first gen version (white, a linear plug into the control unit)

View attachment 1936

Here's the 2nd gen version (black, a rectangular plug into the control unit):

View attachment 2863





Are there instructions on how to use the dual level charge cord? Yes, they will come with the cord but here they are as well:

View attachment 1934

Attached at the bottom of this post is a PDF of the GM Dual Level Charge Cord instructions and installation, or here's a webpage

View attachment 1987


How Long is the Charge Handle Cord?
It's 25 feet long from the control box to the end of the handle.

Is there a GFCI (Ground Fault Circuit Interrupt) built in?
Yes, according to the Status Indicator Lights Key chart below.

What Do I Need to Use this at 120V?
A standard wall outlet. If the outlet is old or worn, replacing it with a new receptacle is a good idea. The contact blades inside a receptical can get lose/sloppy over the years potentially causing electrical arcing or even plug melting. If replacing the outlet, go with a hospital or commercial grade unit rather than a 99 cent special. Wire to the terminal screws, don't use the back-stab option.
View attachment 1988


What Do I Need to Use this at 240V?
Note that the 32A level 2 option requires

1. a dedicated circuit with a 40A breaker. and
2. a NEMA 14-50P (plug) receptacle. The Hubble version is beefier for high, continuous load (and more $) than the Leviton version. I think beefier is better when it comes to safety, even has a little green plugin car...

View attachment 2562


This 4-prong outlet gets installed in an over-sized RACO 888 Raised Square Exposed Work Cover, 2-5/8 in Dia L X 4-11/16 in W X 1/2 in T, 4-11/16" cover plate mounted to an over-sized Hubbell-Raco 8257 2-1/8-Inch Deep, 1/2-Inch and 3/4-Inch Side Knockouts Welded 4-11/16-Inch Square Box. These are bigger to accommodate the thicker wires that will be used from the circuit breaker. The box has knockouts for 3/4" conduit (again, thicker wires). The outlet, cover plate and box are available on Amazon and at big box stores.

View attachment 2045



The charge cord plugged into this will support 7.7 kW charging. Again, the 2024 Equinox EV can handle 11.7 kW but you'd need a 50A circuit for that and you'd need to buy a different charge cord that supports 48A (a 50A breaker), 240V 11.7kW charging. GM, ChargePoint, Siemens and other will gladly sell you a unit in the $550 range.

Can I plug into my electric clothes dryer outlet instead? Probably. An optional kit (GM Part # 84877187) with other plugs is available for plugging in to NEMA 5-15, NEMA TT-30, AND NEMA 14-30 outlets. These and other related parts are available at AC Delco directly or through GM parts sellers
View attachment 1939
Is there a video I can watch?
Yes, here's a Chevy Support webpage and video on the charge cord with explanation and details (the Bolt EV is still mentioned)

Training video on using the charge port:

Where do I keep this cord if I want it in the car?

The storage area for the case can be seen in this training video on her right (it's empty)

Status Indicator Lights Key

AMBER	BLUE	RED	MESSAGE
	Solid		Power On
	Blink		Charging
		Solid	Refer to Service Personnel
		Blink	GFCI / Shock Detection Interrupt Active
Solid			Problem external to Charge Cord, check wall receptacle and vehicle
Solid	Solid	Solid	Rebooting Due to Error
		Flashing	Alarm System On

The OM p.244-245 describes all the light colors and what they mean, but the flashing red is not discussed, only pulsing red. Seems light an oversight. The flashing red should have been noted with a page link to the security section (which also does not mention the flashing red).

What if I have charging issues? What do the charge cord lights mean?

Here is a Charging Troubleshooting chart (from the car owners manual). Note: These are different than what the Dual Level Charge Cord install sheet says, I'm not sure why.

Verify the charge cord status on the charge cord control box. The charge cord uses a combination of red and green indicators to display the status of the charge cord.

Green	Red	Reason	Action
–	–	The charge cord has no power.	Verify all components are connected properly, there is no damage, and the outlet has power. If the error continues, contact your dealer.
On	–	The charge cord is ready to use.	Plug the charge cord into the vehicle charge port to begin charging.
Blinking	–	Vehicle is actively charging.	No action needed.
Blinking	Blinking	An error has occurred and the charge cord is rebooting.	Wait for the charge cord to return to a solid green. If it reboots two or three more times, unplug the charge cord from the vehicle. If the error continues, contact your dealer.
Blinking	Three blinks	Due to internal overheating from the charge cord control box, charging is at a reduced rate.	If unplugging and plugging back in does not work, move the charge cord away from direct sunlight and/or hot surfaces such as asphalt paving.
Blinking	One blink	Due to overheating on the AC plug or electrical outlet, charging is at a reduced rate.	Disconnect from the electrical outlet. If the error persists, have a qualified electrician inspect and repair the issue.
–	One blink	The charge cord is troubleshooting after an error and requires a reboot.	Try the following actions to restore the full charging rate: – Verify all components are connected properly. Ensure the connectors are fully inserted into the control box or the charge cord will not work properly. – Unplug and plug in the connector. – If the charge cord is in a warm environment, try charging in a cooler area. – Try a different outlet or connector, if available. If the error continues, contact your dealer.
–	Two blinks	There is a Ground Fault Circuit Interruption (GFCI) fault.	After 15 minutes, it will auto-reset. Try a different connector, if available. If the error continues, contact your dealer.
–	On	There is a cordset internal fault.	Immediately disconnect from the electrical outlet and the vehicle. Contact your dealer for a replacement.

Frequently Asked Questions
Q: Will this charge cord fit my vehicle?
A: Yes, it is designed to be compatible with any electric vehicle or plug-in hybrid with an SAE J1772 vehicle connector.
Q: Can I use this charge cord while traveling?
A: Yes, this charge cord is designed to work with any standard 3-prong household outlet for Level 1 charging, or any 4-prong (NEMA 14-50) outlet for Level 2 charging.
Q: Is professional installation required?
A: Professional installation is not required for Level 1 charging. Before plugging into any electrical outlet, have a qualified electrician inspect and verify the electrical system (electrical outlet, wiring, junctions, and protection devices) for heavy-duty services at a 12 amp continuous load. For Level 2 charging, a NEMA 14-50 outlet is required. This outlet requires professional installation by a qualified electrician. For further details on home charging installation, visit chevrolet.com/electric/living-electric/home-charging.
Q: Can I use this charge cord on a circuit with other devices?
A: Always use a dedicated circuit when charging your electric vehicle.
Q: What is the difference between a 120-volt and 240-volt outlet?
A: A 120-volt outlet is typically used with a leaf blower or power tool. A 240-volt outlet is typically used with an electric range.
Q: Can the Dual Level charge cord be used outside?
A: Yes, the charge cord is designed to IP66 standards and can be used outside with a weatherproof outlet. Do not submerge the unit in water.
Q: Can I use the Charge Cord with an extension cord?
A: We do not advise using any non-GM approved extension cord or non-GM approved adapters of any kind.
Q: How fast will my vehicle charge?
A: Further details on vehicle charging are available in the Plug-In Charging section of your vehicle Owner's Manual. For Level 1 charging the cord supports 120 volts at up to 12 amps (1.4kW). For Level 2 charging the cord supports 240 volts at 32 amps (7.7kW). Your vehicle's charging capability may be higher or lower than maximum available from the cord set. Speed of charging may vary based on vehicle type, battery condition, input voltage, vehicle settings and outside temperature.
Q: Are the swappable grid plugs easy to install?
A: The plugs are designed to securely attach to your existing charge cord. Due to their robust design, they may require some force when connecting and disconnecting. Ensure the grid plugs are fully inserted into the charger body for correct operation.

Other GM Charge Cord Options
The AC Delco site has other options, including the GM Power (11.5KW / 48-amp) and the Powerup+ (19.2kW/80-amp) Level 2 charge stations. Price, specs, warranty, faq are all there.

Charging Outlet Installation And Safety

So, I’m having an odd issue.
Have had my 25 LT two weeks tomorrow.
It came with the black EVSE dual level.
I’ve successfully charged it L1 several times via an outside outlet on the garage that we’ve used for an electric grill for years.
Today, with the assistance of a friend, we relocated a 240 receptacle from inside my shop (inside the garage) to an outside heavy duty RV receptacle.
He’s not a master electrician, but he knows what he’s doing.
We checked our results with a meter, and all was well.
At the time, the wife was at work and had the EEV, so couldn’t really test everything.
She got home, and I went out to plug in the newly done L2.
The device flashed both red and green,then settled into a solid red.
Connected to the car, solid red there as well.
Unplugged everything, went into the shop (heated), swapped out the pigtail back to the L1, plugged it into the ac, did the same thing, a couple of both flashing, then went to red.
I took it outside to the outlet that’s previously worked fine, and it behaved normally, going to solid green, plugged it into the car, and it’s charging normally now.
Why would it work fine in one place, but not in two other places…?
It’s all from the same place, and my garage has its own service and panel,breakers, etc.
I guess it’s time to hire a professional sparky…🥴

 

[Steverino]

The device flashed both red and green,then settled into a solid red.

According to the chart in post #1:

On

There is a cordset internal fault.

Immediately disconnect from the electrical outlet and the vehicle. Contact your dealer for a replacement.

You don't say what the Amperage of the breaker is for the 240V circuit, Shtew. It should be 40A.
We don't know how the receptical was wired but are assuming it follows post#1 as well?

 

[Kenny]

According to the chart in post #1:

On

There is a cordset internal fault.

Immediately disconnect from the electrical outlet and the vehicle. Contact your dealer for a replacement.

You don't say what the Amperage of the breaker is for the 240V circuit, Shtew. It should be 40A.
We don't know how the receptical was wired but are assuming it follows post#1 as well?

Yep, sounds like a miswiring, ground of neutral fault or perhaps if the 240 was miswired it screwed up the adapter...not sure why it would still work on the original outside 120 outlet though unless both of the internal outlets have a problem with ground/neutral/wiring...

 

[Nebula1701]

make sure when you attached the 240 dongle to the EVSE that it is pushed ALL the way in.

 

[Shtew]

According to the chart in post #1:

On

There is a cordset internal fault.

Immediately disconnect from the electrical outlet and the vehicle. Contact your dealer for a replacement.

You don't say what the Amperage of the breaker is for the 240V circuit, Shtew. It should be 40A.
We don't know how the receptical was wired but are assuming it follows post#1 as well?

The 240 is on two 30A breakers, and voltage was verified with a VOM.
The one 120 that also didn’t work I’ve been using for years for various shop tasks.
The 120 that it’s plugged into now and is charging is an outside outlet with an interrupt ground fault.
And it’s charging fine, tho L1.
So I’m curious why the EVSE works in one outlet, but not others…?
Contacting an electrician friend today…

 

[Steverino]

The unit is designed to work at 32A with a 40A breaker (240V breakers are double-joined because there are two hot wires being used instead of one). Did the 30A blow? If not, it certainly could at some point as the unit can draw more current than the 30A breaker is rated for.

Regarding some 120V receptacles working and others not: bad ground, loose or reversed wiring. Depending what you plug in, the appliance may not notice or care. For example, and old light bulb will run without a ground and with the polarity switched. The EVSE does care as there's a GFCI built in as a safety device. Obviously something is different between them. A $8 outlet tester would identify a bad ground or reversed wiring. You don't need to be an electrician to use one. Just plug it in and the light will tell you the story.

 

[GFW]

Most residential electricians (including the good ones) are not familiar with EVSEs. They are accustomed to installing cheap NEMAs(14-50) for dryers, etc.
AS RECOMMENDED, ONLY industrial NEMA 14-50(`$50) or hardwired. Properly installed (75 torque) 14-50 only (again most residential electricians will balk at this BUT INSIST- purchase a torque screwdriver if they argue)

 

[Shtew]

The unit is designed to work at 32A with a 40A breaker (240V breakers are double-joined because there are two hot wires being used instead of one). Did the 30A blow? If not, it certainly could at some point as the unit can draw more current than the 30A breaker is rated for.

Regarding some 120V receptacles working and others not: bad ground, loose or reversed wiring. Depending what you plug in, the appliance may not notice or care. For example, and old light bulb will run without a ground and with the polarity switched. The EVSE does care as there's a GFCI built in as a safety device. Obviously something is different between them. A $8 outlet tester would identify a bad ground or reversed wiring. You don't need to be an electrician to use one. Just plug it in and the light will tell you the story.

View attachment 5174

I just ordered a 240 RV circuit tester.
Hopefully it’ll tell me what’s wrong.
Will be cheaper than hiring a Sparky for now anyway.
My 240 has a 30A breaker on each 120 leg.
Meanwhile…I continue to charge via the L1…soooooo slowly…
At least I know that I didn’t fry the EVSE…😎

 

[Steverino]

My 240 has a 30A breaker on each 120 leg.

Again, should be dual 40A. 30A won't break the EVSE but the EVSE draws 32A which will eventually trip the 30A dual breaker, Shtew.

 

[GFW]

Jerryrig/cheap does not work here. Way too dangerous (not to mention your insurance, should they find out , and they will if you file a claim......)
do it right or not at all -or just use L1
Steve's advice is sound and he is simply trying to convince you to be safe and sound.

 

[EVer]

I bought a 2025 LT at the end of November, it didn't include the cord. I figured I could just order one from GM. Big mistake.
1) The parts website is poorly designed. You can't exclude dealers that don't have the item in stock. You have to manually click on each dealer and see if they have it in stock. At least 50 of the nearest dealers to me don't have the item in stock.
2) I called a local dealer and the parts person said the item is on back order. No idea when it will become available. No way to put my name on a list (that is probably dealer specific, but probably typical).
3) Called the Chevy EV concierge. Same information. On back order, no one can tell when it will be available. No way to contact anyone with responsibility to get updates. And they had been looking into it as other callers had same issue. Half-seriously I told them go to Outlook, click on Mary Barra, then organization, chain down until you find someone who looks like it is their responsibility and send. They did not acknowledge attempting this.
I am disappointed that GM couldn't figure it out any better than this.

 

[hellsop]

I bought a 2025 LT at the end of November, it didn't include the cord. I figured I could just order one from GM. Big mistake.
...
I am disappointed that GM couldn't figure it out any better than this.

Just buy another one than the GM one. You'll get the right one for your wiring available and it'll be fine. And you'll probably save a few bucks in the process.

(GM wants to sell you the big home power package. Which is BETTER, but not everybody needs it or wants to spend that level of money on backup power.)

 

[EVer]

Just buy another one than the GM one. You'll get the right one for your wiring available and it'll be fine. And you'll probably save a few bucks in the process.

(GM wants to sell you the big home power package. Which is BETTER, but not everybody needs it or wants to spend that level of money on backup power.)

I had hoped to stay within the GM ecosystem for the charger to reduce chance for any potential problems. I charged the Equinox with the LEAF L2 home cord successfully at first, but it recently broke (possible user error with a kid user), so now I don't have a home cord for either EV! Nissan discontinued that part (no word yet on OEM for their new vehicles), and seems to be pushing for third-party L2 home chargers.

Does anyone have links to L2 charger buyer's guide/comparisons? I haven't been able to turn up anything on some of the sites I frequent yet. I will share if I find anything useful.

 

[Steverino]

ChargePoint, Grizzl-e seem well regarded. My Siemens is doing fine. Get one with an adjustable amp setting capability so you can adjust to your circuit capability. Some like wifi app capability, some don't. Some like the ability to schedule charging on the EVSE rather than using the car's scheduler.

 

[DancenCamp]

The second generation version of the Ultium Dual level charger came with my Equinox EV, with NEMA 14-50 240V level 2 pigtail and 120V level 1 (15Amp plug) pigtail. Since I also wanted NEMA TT-30 charging capability I ordered a NEMA TT-30 pigtail for it from Scroggin Dickey Parts Center, but they sent me the pigtail version for model 1, with the pins in a row of 4 rather than in 2 rows of 2. They dont have version 2 pigtails. With this change in generations, the suppliers are confused as well. Where can I get TT-30 pigtails for version 2? Alternately can I just use a TT-30 to 14-50 adaptor and hope I can set the power down to 24 amps before it starts charging? With the later adaptor, Will the charger recognize the 120 volts and only allow 24 amps? Thank you

 

[Steverino]

Where can I get TT-30 pigtails for version 2?

None for sale or even listed that I know of DancenCamp. The only control you have in the car is choosing between 8A or 12A for 120V. No amp user setting for 240V in the car or the EVSE that. What we don't know is if the TT-30 for V1 has a 24A limiter built in, or if something inside the EVSE control box auto-limits the amps to 24 when it doesn't sense the 14-50P neutral. Something like, "No Neutral detected at 240V? Limit to 24A".

Without a limiter, I expect the EVSE to draw as many amps as the circuit can feed it until the unit gets smoked. You would not want to plug the 14-50P into an 80A 249V circuit for example. 40A is the spec.

 

[GFW]

baffled by non 14-50/hard wire nonsense
EVSEs with industrial 14-50 or hard wire are it for L2, universally
Plain and simple, years of evidence, no brainer

 

[DancenCamp]

None for sale or even listed that I know of DancenCamp. The only control you have in the car is choosing between 8A or 12A for 120V. No amp user setting for 240V in the car or the EVSE that. What we don't know is if the TT-30 for V1 has a 24A limiter built in, or if something inside the EVSE control box auto-limits the amps to 24 when it doesn't sense the 14-50P neutral. Something like, "No Neutral detected at 240V? Limit to 24A".

Without a limiter, I expect the EVSE to draw as many amps as the circuit can feed it until the unit gets smoked. You would not want to plug the 14-50P into an 80A 249V circuit for example. 40A is the spec.

Steverino and GFW thanks for your reply. Wow - so you are saying that the 14-50P on the GM Ultium dual charger is for and only for use with 240V 40A 14-50 receptacles and I will not be able to set the amps. If that is the case, will need to see if I can find a 3rd party charger that enables level 1 120V charging at 8, 12 and 24 amps and (separately) Level 2 at 240V with more control of amps. I need this, since campground power poles typically have NEMA 14-50 recepticle for 240V at 40 or 50 amps, a TT-30 for 120V at 30amps, and a standard 120V 15 amp plug. Since sometimes one or more circuits are out, it will be important to be able to connect the one with the highest power. Thanks