[MSD]

If GM wants you to follow a

So, I'd like to know what the predicted longevity of these 12Vs is supposed to be. Feeling lazy- anyone find it on the battery top?

Also wonder if there's a lithium long life replacement we can tie into?

The 12v system powered by a regular 12v lead-acid AGM battery. I'd expect 4-6 years for most situations, variable based on use, environmental conditions, etc, with some only getting 3 years, others stretching to 8. The AGM battery on my truck is 6 years old, and it has had a far less than optimal use: hot summers and cold winters, sitting for long stretches not used, driven for short distances for some periods, and lots of towing for others.

 

[hodges.karl]

Sorry you're dealing with this. Sounds awful, but not surprising.



You're statement above was my conclusion after just a few days of ownership. They made a decision, set a deadline, and proceeded to market. There are so many aspects of this software logic that scream "beta", and the hardware was not fully tested either. Take the forward visibility as Exhibit A: massive A-pillar, ginormous camera cluster, wipers that leave 5" of windshield obscured next to that massive A-piller, all complemented with a highly reflective windshield that reflects the most idiotic dashboard design/material combo in the history of automotive design into your face. That is, just trying to see out of the front windshield of this vehicle tells you all you need to know about the design/testing process.

That said, I've been fortunate so far. The numerous "errors" and "alerts" have all apparently been software bugs so far. I have been loving electric, and this base model combined with state and federal credits was a great entry point. I'm not happy with the materials and finish for $35k (compared to ICE $35k vehicles), but I just keep reminding myself that mine was net $20k out the door, which can't be done with any other vehicle with a 330 mile range, electric or ICE. So it's an initial bargain where we pay incremental "costs" along the way (like every time you struggle to look out the windshield. 🤣) Hopefully decent options exist when the warranty is up.

I'll agree that the interior chrome bits reflect sun into my eyes, and I intend to find a way to dull those surfaces, but I held off buying an EV because the infotainment screens seemed like a nightmare for my old eyes. I find the Equinox screen well placed and very accommodating.

As for the camera cluster- every car with robotic helpers has it these days. We rented a Toyota Corolla on a trip and got used to it in a week.

 

[Steverino]

I find the Equinox screen well placed and very accommodating.

After test driving Kia, Hyundai, VW I agree.

A friendly reminder your account will be suspended tomorrow. Click your Avatar on top right of webpage. Check your messages in Conversations. Your account will be suspended tomorrow unless action is taken.

 

[Taoshum]

Your car was completely covered by warranty - there's no reason GM wouldn't start the rental immediately. Notify mary.barra@gm.com to get a member of her executive customer service team to assist you.

Maybe you also have a phone number for the "executive customer service team"? In any event THANKS!! for the email address.

 

[coastalcruiser]

Maybe you also have a phone number for the "executive customer service team"? In any event THANKS!! for the email address.

Look up the number for the GM concierge. They can be helpful in such cases.

 

[MSD]

My 1986 Chevrolet Celebrity had a Battery Volt Gage that will indicate the level of charge and you could see voltage jump up a notch or two when revving up the engine. With today's technology and the plethora of information we get on the dashboard, it is absurd the 12V health is missing.
So, it is not like the drivers are asking for something new that engineers would have to break their heads into.

8 to 18v??!! First, would the car even crank sub 10v? Second, I'd flip out if I saw a car's 12v battery charging at 16v, let alone 18v. Seems like an overly large range. That said, I'm impressed that you have a digital image of a 1986 dash. My mom had this model/car, a Eurosport trim level (with absolutely nothing European or Sporty about it... had a red pinstripe in the wrap-around bumper/trim instead of white?)

 

[Duke Woolworth]

unclear, some sort of computer glitch that seems to have drained the 12 volt battery.

Maybe it's because they've sold so many more EVs, but the Korean forums are rife with dead 12V batteries caused by bad ICCUs. Still have two '19 Bolts with original batteries!

 

[Steverino]

the Korean forums are rife with dead 12V batteries caused by bad ICCUs

Another cause cited by Hyundai was "overactive unauthorized Bluelink use by 3rd party apps that is waking up the car too often." Basically, unauthorized third-party Bluelink apps are requesting information too frequently from the Ioniq 5. Each time that happens it wakes up the vehicle, causing significant draw until it goes to sleep.

InsideEVs

Rvian has also seen some 12v battery deaths and issued a OYA update to address it.

"The software patch in question is part of the EV maker’s latest OTA update, which includes several improvements, but also addresses the 12V battery drain issue, with the release notes reading “Fixed a very rare issue that caused an internal loss of communication when turning on a vehicle, which drained the 12 V batteries.”

InsideEVs

And as many here know, GM issued an OTA update to address 12v battery drain as well.

Update N25-249834 for 12V battery drain, SHVS messages

 

[CHASBOLT]

Seems to have many probs.

 

[coastalcruiser]

And as many here know, GM issued an OTA update to address 12v battery drain as well.

Many. But not me. Thanks for posting.

 

[coastalcruiser]

I'll just post this here. Add to the discussion about jump starting the car if 12v battery is dead...

I picked up a latching current meter that displays the max current drawn over a period of time. Attached the clamp around the negative battery cable and turned on the car. The meter displayed 35.6 amps. So with this [limited] sample, a jump pack would have to supply at least 36 amps to start the car. From there the contactors close and the traction battery can power the car.

 

[Fred_Savage]

I'll just post this here. Add to the discussion about jump starting the car is 12v battery is dead...

I picked up a latching current meter that displays the max current drawn over a period of time. Attached the clamp to the negative terminal and turned on the car. The meter displayed 35.6 amps. So with this [limited] sample, a jump pack would have to supply at least 36 amps to start the car. From there the contactors close and the traction battery can power the car.

View attachment 7869

Thanks for the measurement. 35.6 A is nothing near the 400-600 A required to start an ICEV. Good to know practically any battery jump starter meant for an ICEV will work.

 

[Salkin]

While there are some peak demand on the starting battery draw, considering not needing to crank the starter motor using the 12v battery, I would thought 'any' jump starter would be capable of starting the EQEV.

Typical jump starter has 1000A peak current, and some claims to have a lot more. Many HEV like Prius and PHEV and all BEV do not use the 12V battery for cranking engine, so the peak demands at starting is much lower. I never tried it myself, but people has successfully jumpstarted Prius with 8 D size alkaline batteries (1.5v each) in series (12v). Yeah, 36A is nothing. My two jump starters I carry, one lithium battery pack and one super capacitor type both have over 1000A peak current spec.

 

[Fred_Savage]

While there are some peak demand on the starting battery draw, considering not needing to crank the starter motor using the 12v battery, I would thought 'any' jump starter would be capable of starting the EQEV.

Typical jump starter has 1000A peak current, and some claims to have a lot more. Many HEV like Prius and PHEV and all BEV do not use the 12V battery for cranking engine, so the peak demands at starting is much lower. I never tried it myself, but people has successfully jumpstarted Prius with 8 D size alkaline batteries (1.5v each) in series (12v). Yeah, 36A is nothing. My two jump starters I carry, one lithium battery pack and one super capacitor type both have over 1000A peak current spec.

Good point. I bought a 2000A Li-ion jump pack not so much for my EV, but in case someone else needs a jump. On the Bolt forum, read that we shouldn't use our 12V AGM to jump another vehicle, but don't know if anything is different with the EqEV.

 

[Salkin]

On the Bolt forum, read that we shouldn't use our 12V AGM to jump another vehicle, but don't know if anything is different with the EqEV.

I have read a similar warning on the Prius forum. My understanding is that the AGM batteries used in the Prius, Bolt, or EQEV are no different from those used in other cars. If the battery is removed from the car, it can be safely used as a donor for jump-starting another car. But the danger is that if a reverse polarity connection is made, it can potentially damage the expensive traction battery components in the car. Additionally, if too much current is drawn by the recipient car (such as when starting a regular ICE vehicle), it can potentially damage the fusible links.

Therefore, that warning relates to any HEV, PHEV, or BEV used as a donor for jump-starting. Even for non-EVs, using a jump starter for jumping is far safer and more convenient than using a car as a donor, in my opinion. Most jump starter comes with reverse polarity fault protection. The worst that could happen would be being unable to start the car, which is no worse situation. With an EV as a donor for the jump starter, you can potentially damage expensive traction battery components, and could end up with two dead cars.

 

[coastalcruiser]

Yes, most any jump should be able to start the car, but I suggest that whatever jump pack one purchases they test to see if it works. One of the three I bought for my Bolt to test out my theory that a jump pack would start the car, didn't.

https://www.chevybolt.org/threads/cold-cranking-amps.56352/page-6?post_id=989334#post-989334

The beauty of keeping a jump pack in the car that is overrated for the application (and like y'all are saying, most are), is that you don't have to worry as much about self-discharge. If the jump pack goes 6 mos or a year w/o being charged it will likely still do the job when called upon.

 

[tiabrickey316]

Mine would not fast charge. It also wouldn't take a charge over 50%. This also came out of nowhere. I was 370 miles from home. Had to leave it in TX at a dealership. The first dealership I went to would not help me at all. The 2nd did tell me it was all due to internal battery failure. I live in AR. I had a terrible problem finding a rental car to make it home. I loved my car prior to this. Now I'm a little spooked. I'll have mine a year August 5. Really nervous about how long this will take to get repaired and back to me.

 

[Kenny]

Mine would not fast charge. It also wouldn't take a charge over 50%. This also came out of nowhere. I was 370 miles from home. Had to leave it in TX at a dealership. The first dealership I went to would not help me at all. The 2nd did tell me it was all due to internal battery failure. I live in AR. I had a terrible problem finding a rental car to make it home. I loved my car prior to this. Now I'm a little spooked. I'll have mine a year August 5. Really nervous about how long this will take to get repaired and back to me.

Good Luck! Keep us posted!!

 

[Steverino]

The 2nd did tell me it was all due to internal battery failure. I live in AR. I had a terrible problem finding a rental car to make it home. I loved my car prior to this. Now I'm a little spooked. I'll have mine a year August 5. Really nervous about how long this will take to get repaired and back to me.

Plan on a month or so. That seems to be the norm when a new part (in this case possibly a battery pack) is needed. The good news is those who have had the pack replaced don't seem to have any follow-on issues.

 

[coastalcruiser]

Good Luck! Keep us posted!!

Plan on a month or so. That seems to be the norm when a new part (in this case possibly a battery pack) is needed. The good news is those who have had the pack replaced don't seem to have any follow-on issues.

You understand what he was talking about? Lost me. Did the conversation shift from 12v to traction battery?