Thanks, and how long does it take to change 150 kW Level 3 DCFC?AFAIK,
11.5 kW Level 2 (AC) charging, 3RS has an optional 19.2 kW Level 2 (AC) charging
150 kW Level 3 DCFC
300 miles FWD
280 miles eAWD
About 70 miles in 10 minutes assuming the battery is low. DCFC charge rate tapers as the battery fills to avoid cooking the battery. Pull in with a 90% full battery may take 10 minutes to add 10 miles (or something). I have not seen any DCFC charging curves for the Equinox EV, but here are some examples; Common DC Fast Charging Curves and How to Find Yours | ChargePointThanks, and how long does it take to change 150 kW Level 3 DCFC?
I hope a software update will bring it over 300 miles for AWD.
I am just worried that in 2 years' time the competition might offer more. I hope the Eq makes more improvements.About 70 miles in 10 minutes assuming the battery is low. DCFC charge rate tapers as the battery fills to avoid cooking the battery. Pull in with a 90% full battery may take 10 minutes to add 10 miles (or something). I have not seen any DCFC charging curves for the Equinox EV, but here are some examples; Common DC Fast Charging Curves and How to Find Yours | ChargePoint
AWD ranges will always be less. The components required to drive the other wheels to add extra weight, and some friction loss, and may still use power when not in use. That's generally the case regardless of brand.
You shouldn't "worry" about competition, you should be happy about it! If there's something better by the time the Equinox is out, get back your deposit, and choose the better car.I am just worried that in 2 years' time the competition might offer more. I hope the Eq makes more improvements.
Yes, looking at it from a just a vehicle perspective is the correct way at looking at it and buying something that is two years old or so. This would make sense to me if it was an ICE vehicle. Being that EVs are technically new and very new to me as I never bought one or experienced having one other than a 15 minute test drive is both exciting and nervous.This discussion reminds me of whether I should buy a computer today knowing that there will be a "better" one every 6 months for the next 20 years. Perpetually waiting because there will be something better coming is not a solution.
If the car fits your needs now, buy it. Cars that come along later don't affect the utility of the car you bought. A future car with a bigger screen or more range or a different style does not make my car outdated if it still gets me from point A to point B. And at some point, the car could become cherished. Is a 1962 Corvette outdated or a great piece of nostalgia? Technology-wise it's outdated. No seat belts, no dash navigation, no power windows, etc. But if it still runs, you have an awesome heirloom.
If you really are concerned about being somehow left behind, buy a 2 year old Bolt, drive it for 3 years, sell it for almost what you paid for it. Still concerned? Buy a 2 year old off-lease Equinox EV, rinse and repeat. Buying a new car only makes $ sense if you keep them. Otherwise you take a big depreciation hit (in normal times) switching cars every few years.
I took it further, I always bought used and kept them. The money I saved doing that and avoiding leases (among other things) helped build my retirement portfolio. The Volt and Bolt—besides being my first GM cars—where the first new cars I ever owned.
I'd be keeping the Volt longer if I could, but it's not using the Ultium platform and that means replacing battery components from a very limited (and aging) supply of used, salvaged cars is an expensive problem. GM has addressed that with the Ultium design. Whatever is coming out the factory at the time will work, plus there should be a LOT of used bricks available via salvage yards given they will be used across GM's entire portfolio rather than a one-off for one low-volume model.
I've talked to them a few months ago. I decided against that because:There is a new company called Vinfast that allows you to "rent" the batteries or the option to buy them with the car. I wonder if that's similar to the Ultium that will allow you to replace the battery once it is outdated. VinFast
Same here. NEVER bought new even when I had enough to buy one CASH. It (used to be) the worst financial move ever. I'm buying new now just because:This discussion reminds me of whether I should buy a computer today knowing that there will be a "better" one every 6 months for the next 20 years. Perpetually waiting because there will be something better coming is not a solution.
If the car fits your needs now, buy it. Cars that come along later don't affect the utility of the car you bought. A future car with a bigger screen or more range or a different style does not make my car outdated if it still gets me from point A to point B. And at some point, the car could become cherished. Is a 1962 Corvette outdated or a great piece of nostalgia? Technology-wise it's outdated. No seat belts, no dash navigation, no power windows, etc. But if it still runs, you have an awesome heirloom.
If you really are concerned about being somehow left behind, buy a 2 year old Bolt, drive it for 3 years, sell it for almost what you paid for it. Still concerned? Buy a 2 year old off-lease Equinox EV, rinse and repeat. Buying a new car only makes $ sense if you keep them. Otherwise you take a big depreciation hit (in normal times) switching cars every few years.
I took it further, I always bought used and kept them. The money I saved doing that and avoiding leases (among other things) helped build my retirement portfolio. The Volt and Bolt—besides being my first GM cars—where the first new cars I ever owned.
I'd be keeping the Volt longer if I could, but it's not using the Ultium platform and that means replacing battery components from a very limited (and aging) supply of used, salvaged cars is an expensive problem. GM has addressed that with the Ultium design. Whatever is coming out the factory at the time will work, plus there should be a LOT of used bricks available via salvage yards given they will be used across GM's entire portfolio rather than a one-off for one low-volume model.
= Not for me.I've talked to them a few months ago. I decided against that because:
1. They reserve the right to increase the lease price of the battery at any time. And with the battery, it's $65K (!!!) For the VF8.
2. They are VERY expensive considering the battery isn't yours (55K)
3. No dealerships, so who knows how long you'll have to wait for a fix, and parts availability might be an issue. Tesla owners sometimes wait for 4 MONTHS to get someone to look at their car, and sometimes even longer for parts.
4. Their battery is one solid module, like the rest of EVs out there.
At the time I spoke with them, they didn't have the option of owning the battery... So I didn't priced that out.
Edit: HOLY COW, when I've contacted them a few months ago, the subscription for low mileage drivers was $60, now the only option is "unlimited" for $260\month! That's $31K in 10 years! Wayyyy more than what a full battery replacement cost!
Sorry, but I advise you NOT to take that option. It's a HORRIBLE deal.
Not only that... But no one will need that much. A battery is about 13K now. 8 years forward will probably be cheaper, let's say 9K. 217\month for 8 years is 21K, so even if you earn no interest, you can still buy 2 be batteries+change once the car is out of warranty. And the chances that the battery will die exactly when the warranty is over are very slim. So you'll probably save closer to 26K (10 years).I have a running dialogue with a Volt forum member who insists GM must offer a battery replacement subscription option for him the "trust" the Ultium platform. I did a quick analysis and asked if they'd be OK paying $217/month for the life of the car. They said no, were thinking more along the lines of a one-time $3k. Based on this Vinfast, it looks like I was not far off the mark. And the Vinfast battery replacement rental is IN ADDITION to buying the car.
This is just a glorified lay-away plan. You don't need them to do this. Just put $217/month in your own savings account. You even get to keep the interest earned!![]()
All the extended warranties I have seen for Chevy have a time/mile limit so I doubt there will be one that doesn't. But you never know.If Chevy will offer a no time limit 160Kkm (100 mile) warranty bumper to bumper, I'm willing to pay an extra 4K for it.
If that's the case, I will go with one with less bells and whistles. I don't want to repeat my "VW Days" when a lot of parts broke down and I was paying just to sell the car.Not only that... But no one will need that much. A battery is about 13K now. 8 years forward will probably be cheaper, let's say 9K. 217\month for 8 years is 21K, so even if you earn no interest, you can still buy 2 be batteries+change once the car is out of warranty. And the chances that the battery will die exactly when the warranty is over are very slim. So you'll probably save closer to 26K (10 years).
Don't get me wrong, I'm a sucker for long warranties... But not if there's close to 0 chance I'll ever break even. If Chevy will offer a no time limit 160Kkm (100 mile) warranty bumper to bumper, I'm willing to pay an extra 4K for it. The infotainment screen alone probably cost that much. Now add all the other gizmos, each LED unit is $1500, window motors and regulators, door latches, all the suspension parts, battery cooling system, heat pump, etc. If only one or two of these break, you saved money by taking the warranty.
Might be a 3rd party warranty that will do a no time limit... I'll have to see what I can get.All the extended warranties I have seen for Chevy have a time/mile limit so I doubt there will be one that doesn't. But you never know.
Let me know if that is avail in down here in the US.Might be a 3rd party warranty that will do a no time limit... I'll have to see what I can get.