[Steverino]

The bars sold by Chevy do not bend into the feet, they stick out at the ends.

I've seen others that curve, Max. If msav's are like this, then straps could be used around those extended ends.

I am thinking I will go with some thing like this. It is all one piece instead of multiple pieces that I think would come apart eventually. It clamps down to the factory cross bars that I already have.

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The basket you are looking at could work for luggage and the like. Keep in mind it weighs 41 lbs. That reduces the load weight by the same amount. Again, refer to the OM for max load rate, subtract 41 pounds.

Using plywood, I made a torsion box similar to that that can carry 4x8 sheets on my Thule cross bars.

 

[msav]

The bars sold by Chevy do not bend into the feet, they stick out at the ends. This makes it easier to secure loads side-to-side.
View attachment 6228

Mine do indeed stick out on the ends.
I did not think about wrapping strap around the end of the bars. I don't know how I feel about that being secure enough. I guess as long as the strap does not loosen and allow it to slip off. I will have to test that and see if how it goes to see If I would feel comfortable with the way it secures.

 

[Steverino]

I did not think about wrapping strap around the end of the bars. I don't know how I feel about that being secure enough. I guess as long as the strap does not loosen and allow it to slip off.

Ratched straps. That's what I use. If concerned use two per bar.I also drive under 35 mph with anything lashed down that can act as a sail or wing adding additional stress on the system. I carry a light, collapsable "2 step" aluminum step stool to make getting everything strapped down easier.

 

[MikeZ]

Ratched straps. That's what I use. If concerned use two per bar.I also drive under 35 mph with anything lashed down that can act as a sail or wing adding additional stress on the system. I carry a light, collapsable "2 step" aluminum step stool to make getting everything strapped down easier.

Yup, ratchet straps looped around the ends, or even just around the crossbars inbound of the towers if your item(s) are narrow. Cinch them down tight.

I’ve had up to 5 kayaks, at speeds up to 70 mph. On a single 1990 Nissan Sentra.

Never had an issue.

 

[fullycharged]

Mine do indeed stick out on the ends.
I did not think about wrapping strap around the end of the bars. I don't know how I feel about that being secure enough. I guess as long as the strap does not loosen and allow it to slip off. I will have to test that and see if how it goes to see If I would feel comfortable with the way it secures.

What types of items are you planning to haul with the basket? If it's mostly luggage or camping gear, you might find that the weight distribution makes a difference. Speaking of weight, have you checked the maximum load rating for your cross bars??

 

[Blue Canoe]

Received the rails and installed yesterday. A few thoughts:

Nicely packed, seems to be well made:

View attachment 3952

The ends attach with one screw, with a plate you need to insert into the rails, then put the end on, then attach a screw through it. This was the trickiest part, as the plate sits loose in the rail and you need to try and line up the screw. I used a folded square of paper to hold it in place, pushed against the edge of the rail.

View attachment 3953

The racks installed no issue. They are curved, not flat, so I still need to see how well my roof top carrier will sit. I also may look for black screws to swap out the silver ones it is attached with. The little 'Chevrolet' stickers on the feet will likely fall off in a week.

View attachment 3955

One other issue I see is that in order to use the channel to attach anything, you would need to remove at least on end of from the car to slide the piece in. Not an issue if you are using clamp-on style attachments.

Lastly - the plugs that were covering the bolt holes were a real bugger to get out.

View attachment 3956

Hey great post thanks. I am installing similar racks. No kidding, "bugger" isn't a strong enough word for getting those rubber plugs out. I am stuck on the very first of the eight, tore the top off as shown in your pic. How DID you get them out, is there a magic trick? Especially after tearing off the top. Geez! Thanks!

 

[msav]

What types of items are you planning to haul with the basket? If it's mostly luggage or camping gear, you might find that the weight distribution makes a difference. Speaking of weight, have you checked the maximum load rating for your cross bars??

maximum load rating of the basket far exceeds the factory roof rack maximum so I am going with the factory roof rack maximums. I assume since they are factory crossbars as well that they should be the same.

 

[Imola.ZHP]

I am thinking I will go with some thing like this. It is all one piece instead of multiple pieces that I think would come apart eventually. It clamps down to the factory cross bars that I already have.

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There goes your range.

 

[msav]

There goes your range.

actually I have noticed a range decrease. I only drive 20 miles a day though. I do hear added noise from it once hitting 70+ MPH so I know there is going to be a range hit just not noticeable on the small 20 mile scale.
I also pulled my utility trailer to home depot and back about 20 miles and did not notice a range hit there as well. Only brought home about 400 lbs of osb wood and fiberboard siding. again small range scale at only 20 miles.
I will probably remove the basket if I plan on any longer trips where I may be inconvenienced by the loss of range.

 

[Sunny]

Hey great post thanks. I am installing similar racks. No kidding, "bugger" isn't a strong enough word for getting those rubber plugs out. I am stuck on the very first of the eight, tore the top off as shown in your pic. How DID you get them out, is there a magic trick? Especially after tearing off the top. Geez! Thanks!

I bought this ‘’fastener remover’’ kit on Amazon. None of the removers worked.
I modified one of them to make a smaller slot and it was really easy to pry them out.
The slot is 1/8’’ wide by 5/16’’ deep.

 

[Sunny]

I bought this ‘’fastener remover’’ kit on Amazon. None of the removers worked.
I modified one of them to make a smaller slot and it was really easy to pry them out.
The slot is 1/8’’ wide by 5/16’’ deep.

 

[Blue Canoe]

I bought this ‘’fastener remover’’ kit on Amazon. None of the removers worked.
I modified one of them to make a smaller slot and it was really easy to pry them out.
The slot is 1/8’’ wide by 5/16’’ deep.

Hey thanks Sunny! I have a set of plastic pry tools that I can modify as you suggest. I just knew their had to be a tool or technique.

 

[Salkin]

These are the ones I have.

OK... I just ordered OEM cross bars from the US Chevrolet store. But now I'm wondering which one I am going to receive. Is it the one pictured in @jonhache posted (first photo below) or the one in the Chevrolet shop copied in @jg.'s comment (second photo below)? Sounds like @obermd got the one like the photo in the Chevrolet store. Maybe that is the US version? And jonhache is Canada version?

 

[obermd]

The second ones. See the groves in the rails. These grooves route the air flow in such a way that the rack doesn't whistle, even at 100 MPH.

 

[Salkin]

I will report when I receive mine. I don't think I will ever drive my EQEV at 100mph, but I thought the one shown on first photo above looks better and more "OEM" look. But of course, I saw the photo of the second one on the GM shop page, so that was what I was expecting. Honestly, for my use case, either one would be fine though.

 

[kpfleming]

I installed roof rails ordered from the Accessories store this week, and they match the second picture.

 

[FoxyNoxy]

So for those of us with base model LTs and NO roof rails I may have found a solution. So far none of the aftermarket suppliers are offering a roof rack for smooth-top cars like mine. So I went to my considerable pile of leftover thule and inno (usually interchangeable) old school square rail parts and my fit kit from a 2006 civic 4 door fits not too badly. Once tightened down I couldn't budge it by hand. Photos first, then more writeup:

Looks almost like Inno designed it for the EQEV back in 2006. My biggest problem was that my cross rails were too short at 50", so I could only fully install the back rails because the front of the roof is wider. I would need 56" rails to make this work, luckily longer rails seem easy enough to find used on kijiji. I'll probably use some leftover PPF under where the rack touches the car, for protection and to make positioning the rack easier.

This was a test fit only - long story short I will not be able to take any action on this until September. I will check back with the aftermarket then to see if inno or thule have developed anything and how similar does it look to this fit kit.

My application is mostly for transporting a canoe short distances. The canoe is tied down bow and stern and this adds extra security. I have not verified if the canoe on top will improve aero enough to increase range. Of course this was only a test and your results may vary and so on with the usual disclaimer stuff so don't say you haven't been warned that if you copy this idea any liability is your own. I hate having to say that.

Of particular satisfaction to me is that if this works I have avoided buying a very expensive upgrade package just to get the roof rails. Aftermarket roof rack and trailer hitch saved me $10K over Chevy's OEM options.

 

[Salkin]

I will report when I receive mine.

OK. Just finished installing the GM OEM roof rack system, Part No.: 85129160. It was just as pictured on the GM Accessories website. Came fully assembled. Just needed to bolt it onto the rails. 4 bolts to tighten the cross bars to the legs and 8 bolts to attach the legs to the rails. Came with a Torx wrench. But, a rachet type wrench will make the tightening those bolts much easier. Also need a pointy pliers to pull out the plastic plugs on the roof rails' bolt holes.

Took less than 1 hour. But more than a half of that was used in removing the plastic plugs that were covering the bolt holes on the rails.

Lastly - the plugs that were covering the bolt holes were a real bugger to get out.

Yeah, I could not remove them in one piece 6 out of 8. 2 of which the stem part of the plug would not come out. I had to push them into the hollow inside of the roof rail to make the bolt holes accessible.

Now I'm finished installing it, I don't really like it. The cross bar is not changeable and position is fixed. Cross bars top surface is lower than the highest points on the mounting legs, making it unusable for anything wider than 35". Yakima or Thule mounting system and interchangeable cross bars might have been more useful, even though cost substantially more than this OEM cross bars.

I have no plan to use the roof rack any time soon. For now I will keep it and see how it works for our rare occasions when we need to carry stuff that does not fit inside the cabin. I also have the OEM hitch receiver installed. If pressed, I can always use the light duty HF 4'x8' trailer. Oh well.

 

[kpfleming]

Same issue with the plastic plugs here too... the caps broke off, I used a small Philips screwdriver to push the remaining bits into the rail.

 

[Blue Canoe]

Plastic plugs -- Solved! As with many proud EQEV owners I purchased after-market roof racks, on eBay here: Pardon Our Interruption.... Right away ran into the problem of stubborn plastic plugs in the rails. After breaking the first one and leaving the stub in the hole, I cried uncle and contacted my dealer for help. The mechanic showed me how to remove the plugs; it's embarrassingly easy:

1. Use a fastener removal tool to pry the head of the plug out a wee bit, just enough to get a grip on it (tool as pictured, attached; typically used for removing the fasteners in door panels) or similar thin pry device -- my mechanic used a pocket knife she had in her pocket.

2. The plugs are not threaded but are ribbed. The hole is threaded to receive the roof rack screw. Grip the head of the plug with your fingers and turn it lefty-loosey as if removing a screw; the ribs on the plugs catch the threads in the hole, and out it comes! Each plug takes about 30 seconds.

Instructions for installation of roof racks on another Chevy model are attached, seem pretty much the same for the EQEV.

In completing the installation, be aware that the front and rear racks are different lengths, and the end brackets are specific to front/rear and left/right. The stainless steel allen-head screws go in easily enough.

Once the rack was mounted I took the car out to check for wind noise. Sadly, above about 40mph the wind noise is terrible, despite the racks designed as airfoils to minimize drag and noise. Since I will use the racks only for occasionally carrying my beautiful blue canoe, I took the racks off for to be re-installed only when needed. I used the mounting screws to plug the holes, seems to work fine.