It's not the vehicle. The EVSE usually have dip switches, software settings, or both, to set the maximum charging current. This is communicated to the car via the charging cable. The car wii then draw the amount of current it requires for the conditions, which is usually the setting from the EVSE. Unless it is extremely hot it should pull more than 16A. Any friends with an EV that could test this for you.

 

Was the EVSE before the upgrading to 60 amp circuit charging at 32 amp? As far as I know, there is no setting in the car or My Chevy app that can change the limit for the L2 EVSE.

 

Before the upgrade it was on a 50A plug-in circuit (so, max charge 40A) but I had limited charging to 32A in the app.

Tech support for the charger could see the charger settings and verified things were correct. After a long phone call they told me to call my Chevy dealer to work it out.

 

So this EVSE was able to supply 32A before being rewired and now can supply only 16A? I am not familiar with their EVSE, but it sounds like only 120V is being supplied.

In any case, if your car used to charge at 32A, there is nothing wrong with it and the dealer can't fix it.

 

Right! That's what I figured -- I'm assuming the electrician did everything correctly (or the charger wouldn't function at all). Must be something with the charger still. I'm going to fiddle with things over the weekend -- will report back if I find the solution.

 

I agree with Danny. If the car was pulling 32A before rewiring because you set the limit on the EVSE at 32A, then car is not limiting the charge rate. You could check if you can plug in different L2 EVSE, public or private to see if it pulls 32A or higher. I doubt dealer can do anything.

Since after rewiring, the car is charging only at 16A despite the EVSE app is set at max 48A, then it seems new wiring was wrong in that you are not getting full power from the wall. Or EVSE software amp setting is not working correctly. As Danny suggested, to test this, you can ask any friend with an EV to use your EVSE and see if their EV also charge at low 16A (thus car is not the problem).

 

The Chargepoint amp setting doesn't use DIP switched, ts a software setting using your Chargepoint app. If that was done, then either the unit is defective or it's an install issue.

 

UPDATE: I disconnected the charger wires to test them with a voltmeter and they were correct. Reconnected and started charging, and I got full 48A this time. I didn't do anything else!

Strange, but I guess the app/charger just needed a day and another reset to get sorted? Hope it holds... Thanks for the responses on this, everyone!

 

UPDATE: I disconnected the charger wires to test them with a voltmeter and they were correct. Reconnected and started charging, and I got full 48A this time. I didn't do anything else!

Did you use a torque screwdriver/wrench to tighten the set screws? too lose or too tight can result in trouble, up to fire.

 

My guess is the electrician did not wire it up properly...

 

That charger has wire clamps instead of lugs, so it should be all good.

 

Wire clamps require a specific torque for tightness as well.