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Depends on how often you drive and how hard you drive it also the environment it is in.
 
I think that the 80% recommendation from GM is the sweetspot for ensuring the battery life for degredation during the warranty and practical charge level for a decent day to day range use. Following Dr. Dahn's recommendations if feasible for daily commute would just extend the battery life.
This is my thinking exactly. Doesn’t really change anything I’d otherwise be doing aside from plugging in at home every night and increasing my charging costs from mostly free to half free. My assumption is that following the 80% charge rule will get GM past the warranty period, but if proper care of the battery takes the big expensive component from 100k miles to 300k miles or more without much effort or significant cost then I’ll give that a shot
 
This is my thinking exactly. Doesn’t really change anything I’d otherwise be doing aside from plugging in at home every night and increasing my charging costs from mostly free to half free. My assumption is that following the 80% charge rule will get GM past the warranty period, but if proper care of the battery takes the big expensive component from 100k miles to 300k miles or more without much effort or significant cost then I’ll give that a shot
The increase of battery health will only increase the resale value of the vehicle down the road.
 
Sorry for poor wording. Not too worried about the 12V battery. More wondering if it’s just beneficial to be plugged in but not “charging” the big battery but using shore power to let the big battery have proper temp maintained assuming that’s what happens at that point. After this weekends research I think I’ll plan to charge my battery for daily commutes to 65% in summer, drop it to 40 on my 50 mile mostly 75 mph highway drive to work, recharge to 65 at work and then repeat the next day. Using today’s drive as a guide, it will charge up by about noon and if nobody needs the spot I can stay plugged in and doing what it wants to to stay happy until I leave at 5. Home should top off well before I need it at 7 and before my utility wants me to stop the big amp draws at 6. Any idea what power is used once your battery hits target and it’s just trying to keep everything ready to go?
If I wanted the car to be plugged in at home in order to maximize battery heating and cooling using grid power but I got free electricity by charging at work, I think it would be worth the hassle to keep changing the “charge to” percentage every time I plugged in. As an example, get to work, set car to charge to 70% (or 80% or 65%, whatever you are comfortable with), plug in, drive home, SOC when arriving home is 56% (for example), change car “charge to” percentage from 70% to 55%, plug in. Now the car is plugged in at home and using grid power to maintain battery temperature as needed but not using your house power to actually charge the battery. When arriving at work the next day the battery SOC might be down to 42% (for example), but by resetting the “charge to” percentage back to 70% before plugging in you would be back to 70% by the end of your work day. In that way your employer is generously paying for 100% of your commuting electricity costs but you also have the added benefit of having the car plugged into grid power for optimum thermal control of the battery, both at work and at home. You could even change the “charge to” percentage even lower after running errands on the weekend so your employer pays for that too. If it’s a perk, you might as well take advantage of it.
 
I have a question is it better to charge your battery every day to 80% or let it fall down to say 40 or 30% before you charge it back to 80%… What’s the best case for my Chevy equinox EV?
 
I have a question is it better to charge your battery every day to 80% or let it fall down to say 40 or 30% before you charge it back to 80%… What’s the best case for my Chevy equinox EV?
You can top it off to 80% on a daily basis regardless of the state of charge. It will not harm the battery.
 
Discussion starter · #88 ·
I have a question is it better to charge your battery every day to 80% or let it fall down to say 40 or 30% before you charge it back to 80%… What’s the best case for my Chevy equinox EV?
This is more of a legacy gasoline refueling mindset which only leads to longer recharge times with no benefit. Keeping the Equinox EV charged to 80% all time will not hurt it, the incremental "top-offs" will be quicker compared to a recharge starting at 30-40% plus every day you start a full charge. Just park the car and plug it in everyday.
 
Discussion starter · #90 · (Edited)
Thanks, aamyotte, excellent info in the video. I note that the discussion is based on batteries in general, not Ultium specifically. Some like to bash GM for recommending what's actually common wisdom in the industry as discussed in the video.

I hope those few Equinox EV owners who insist on charging to 100% for daily use rather than the recommended 80% will see how hurtful that is to their battery and that this is a function of NMC battery chemistry, not some fault on the part of GM's battery acumen.
 
Sorry for poor wording. Not too worried about the 12V battery. More wondering if it’s just beneficial to be plugged in but not “charging” the big battery but using shore power to let the big battery have proper temp maintained assuming that’s what happens at that point. After this weekends research I think I’ll plan to charge my battery for daily commutes to 65% in summer, drop it to 40 on my 50 mile mostly 75 mph highway drive to work, recharge to 65 at work and then repeat the next day. Using today’s drive as a guide, it will charge up by about noon and if nobody needs the spot I can stay plugged in and doing what it wants to to stay happy until I leave at 5. Home should top off well before I need it at 7 and before my utility wants me to stop the big amp draws at 6. Any idea what power is used once your battery hits target and it’s just trying to keep everything ready to go?
Based on EUV on the winter, I could see from my ChargePoint App using delay charge finish at 7am and leave 7:10, it drew around 3kWh to heat the cabin. If I didn't plug (from office) and preheated before if left I saw usage on the dash around 6-8kWh and then down to 3 before settle to 1-2, so I guess if you plug and charge right away, in the morning still draws around 7kWh for few minutes to warm up battery and cabin.
If I were you, I'll charge to 80 at the office everyday and do not plug at home. :) I'm cheap OK
 
This is a minor thing, but.... got this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0D1VWSRPV?th=1

because my Equinox was perking up, lighting up etc. every time I walked past the garage door. It had dropped battery as much as 1% a day. This pouch is kind of a PITA but it seems to work.
 
Discussion starter · #95 ·
This pouch is kind of a PITA but it seems to work.
But less hassle than dropping the key in a drawer or bowl, I assume.

We never walk around the house with our Equinox EV and Bolt EV key fobs, instead we drop them in a drawer where we keep keys. We have kept car keys in the drawer even before there were fobs.

Just curious, why do you carry your's with you at all times, Kenny?
 
But less hassle than dropping the key in a drawer or bowl, I assume.

We never walk around the house with our Equinox EV and Bolt EV key fobs, instead we drop them in a drawer where we keep keys. We have kept car keys in the drawer even before there were fobs.

Just curious, why do you carry your's with you at all times, Kenny?
Insecurity....boy scout motto ... be prepared! Trump! :) :) :)
 
Discussion starter · #97 ·
Insecurity....boy scout motto ... be prepared!
Sure, but that motto can be taken to extremes that border on pathological. Or require a faraday pouch... :)

I've tested and having the fob in a drawer by the door does not activate the car, but removing it and walking two feet towards the car is enough for the car to react.
 
Sure, but that motto can be taken to extremes that border on pathological. Or require a faraday pouch... :)

I've tested and having the fob in a drawer by the door does not activate the car, but removing it and walking two feet towards the car is enough for the car to react.
Does seem to require motion....
 
I can think of several reasons for keeping the keyfob in your pocket all the time. I used to just leave the keys in the console or ashtray so they were always in the vehicle in case it was needed or even just to be moved for doing something as it was in the way.
With these modern key fobs I enjoy starting the vehicle from a distance so it can be warming up or cooling down before I get into it.
When I'm outside doing something I'll often need to move one of the vehicles to get to something else or to get a tractor through or similar, needing to stop get off, go into the house to get a key is a pain.
 
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